November 13th, 2023 | Words by DAHTT photography by Chanel
Fashion is a dirty word.
The case for the Chanel J12.
All photographs in the article are the property of Chanel.
Fashion is a dirty word in watch circles and I understand why. Every day I reach for a pair of unbranded blue jeans and a grey T-shirt. I have no interest in cat-walks, no desire to stand out, I'm exceptionally boring.
The name Chanel meant nothing to me. I had no idea it was founded in 1910. Nor did I realise that every design they release still retains elements from Coco Chanel's original designs, and that some of those original designs can be found in the architecture of the orphanage she grew up in, or that the iconic No. 5 bottle derives its shape from the Parisian square dear to Coco Chanel's heart.
I can imagine how challenging building a company was for Chanel in a time when women, let alone orphaned women, simply didn't do that sort of thing. But build it she did and it remains privately owned to this day having survived two world wars.
I assumed Chanel was another tasteless brand slapping their label on Chinese made rubbish, but actually having done a bit of research on the brand as a whole, I've discovered that they seem to be interested in making genuinely high quality products which are apparently very hard to get hold of (the clothes and infamous bags, not the watches). It's a tangent I won't go down but there are lots of parallels with Rolex actually.
From the off you need to know the J12 is not a fashion watch. Not in the sense that we're familiar with the term. It's a very serious watch, with a very serious image problem.
Remove Chanel from the dial and contemplate these spec's for a moment. Titanium infused ceramic case and bracelet, rated to 200m (some versions 300m), with COSC movement made by Kenissi (who by the way Chanel part owns with Tudor). Speaking of Tudor, plonk Tudor on the dial and just imagine how excited the watch world would be about a titanium infused ceramic 38mm diver!
I had the opportunity to handle a J12 recently. The feeling of quality and the finishing of the ceramic far, far exceeds that of my beloved Tudor Pelagos. Honestly, I think it exceeds that of my Rolex too.
It's hard to explain the way the titanium infused ceramic feels on your skin. It has silky, liquid properties. The polishing is so exquisite, it feels like somebody has filled a blender with money and poured it onto your wrist.
The bracelet articulation is smoother than jazz and the bezel action as satisfying as any I've encountered. It's a seriously well made watch.
Whether or not Chanel part owning Kenissi makes the movement "in house" doesn't interest me. It depends how you define it. What I am certain of though is that Chanel are into the same stuff that we all are. The J12 was designed to time yacht racing in the Americas Cup. They own Bell & Ross, have a stake in F.P Journe, as mentioned jointly own Kenissi, and have partnered with Audemars Piguet and used the AP calibre 3120 in several watches.
For a moment's perspective, companies with far greater watchmaking heritage, now under the Swatch group aren't doing anything remotely as interesting as any of that, they're laser etching their logo onto ETA rotors and slapping their brand on the dial. Which is the fashion watch again?
The biggest problem the J12 has is the closed mindset of "enthusiasts". Recently a YouTuber put up a poll asking what people thought of fashion watches and included the J12 in the selection. I left a comment detailing the specifications, pointing out it was quite an interesting watch. An "enthusiast" replied immediately stating it was a "joke" and "couldn't even compete with Tissot". I bit, for anyone wondering.
Cartier had this problem not so long ago. People associated them with diamonds. Very few men considered them a worthy watch brand. Now there's a constant flow of men who can't get a Rolex heading to the nearest Cartier dealer pretending they always wanted a square watch, because journalists who also couldn't get a Rolex told them to.
By way of some sort of conclusion to this unfashionable rant, I think Chanel have made a fantastic watch, and with some of their watches have shown a serious commitment to the art of watchmaking for a while now. With the J12 at least, they're doing many things better than lots of established watch brands. The thing they aren't doing as well as other brands is communicating to real watch enthusiasts that they share our values.
Part of me finds that disappointing, and part of me loves being in on the secret. There's something incredibly appealing to me about the idea of quietly wearing a J12, knowing that 'YouTube comment guy' is smugly thinking "look at that joke watch", while wearing whatever the Swatch group marketing people are advertising at the end of Hodinkee's videos this year.
If you're ever near a Chanel boutique or an authorised dealer, I highly recommend you go and experience one and make up your own mind.