December 29th, 2024 | Words and photography by DAHTT
Outliers for outliers.
Bell & Ross make fascinating watches for fascinating people.
So often when researching a brand I come across - "founded in Switzerland in eighteen something or other". The origins of Bell & Ross are unusual in that they were founded in Paris, in the mid 1990's. It seems fitting then that the majority of their watches, certainly the most iconic ones aren't even round. In a world of round pegs, B&R spotted a square hole and have been filling it with achingly cool aviation inspired timepieces for three decades.
I've always admired the avionic instrumentation aesthetic of B&R watches. I'm no pilot, but I grew up a stones throw from the Castle Bromwich factory where the Super Marine Spitfire was assembled which peaked my interest in aviation. One of my earliest memories was standing awestruck, watching Concorde lift off from Birmingham airport as a kid. As an adult I neglected to pursue my fondness for flying machines, but every time I see a B&R watch I find myself revisiting deep dives on Cold War era supersonic bombers and wishing I'd troubled the pilot who trusted me to briefly take control of his Cessna, to actually teach me how to fly.
Having a cool aesthetic will only get you so far as a watch manufacturer though. As much as I've appreciated the design elements of B&R's watches, I'd always had this feeling that they might be all looks and no substance in the flesh. The first time I saw one in person, was on the wrist of the drummer for a hugely successful 1990's band. We were sitting on a sun drenched terrace in the grounds of the studio I was recording in at the time, when I clocked the unmistakable square shape, not just on his wrist, but a matching one of his partners too. I asked if I could have a look. I was shocked at how substantial it felt and how finely it was finished. I'd expected something more basic, more raw. What I found was an exquisitely detailed watch, not tool-tastic in the slightest. Robust, but intricate and precise in its execution.
I shouldn't have been surprised then to find the same thing several years later when opening the box to this B&R. I knew what to expect. Despite that though, there it was again, that feeling of shock. That moment of being taken aback by how such a purposeful looking object could feel so delicately finished.
The closer you look, the more you hunt for imperfections, the more you realise that Bell & Ross make watches to rival the best historic Swiss manufacturers.
It's not what they do as excellently as the old Swiss giants that makes them stand out for me though. It's what they do differently. The designs range from the avionic dials which I love, all the way to insane gothic skull designs which honestly, aren't my cup of tea. Whether they're my particular preferred beverage or not though, you cannot ignore the confidence required to make them, confidence which the people who wear them tend to exude too. I would argue that it is much harder in almost every way to create and market a square watch with a crazy design, than it is to lean on a historic logo and remake a watch designed generations ago. Because of that, I have a lot of time and a lot of respect for B&R.
Time and respect aside though, I just enjoy that feeling of surprise every time I see one in the flesh. The combination of the function over form look, with the artisanal, almost jewellery like finishing, it's unique. Bell & Ross make left field, fascinating watches, for left field fascinating people. Outliers for outliers. I love them.